There are a lot of ways to catch walleyes, and I enjoy pretty much all of them. I love live bait fishing. I love jig fishing. At the end of the day, anytime you’re catching fish, it’s a good time.
But there’s something about catching walleyes on jerkbaits that never gets old.
You’re basically fishing walleyes like you would bass. You’re working the bait aggressively, making it jump and change directions, then pausing it and waiting for that fish to make its move. A lot of times, that bite comes right when the bait starts coming back toward the boat.
Jerk. Jerk. Pause.
Then — bam.
That’s what makes this style of fishing so much fun.
But there’s more to fishing a jerkbait effectively than simply tying one on and throwing it around. Your line, leader, reel and how you manage slack all have a huge impact on how that bait performs.
Why I Use a Heavier Fluorocarbon Leader
One of the biggest things I’ve learned with this style of jerkbait fishing is the importance of using a heavier fluorocarbon leader.
For this presentation, I like 14-pound fluorocarbon.
That might sound heavy to some walleye anglers, especially if you’re accustomed to fishing 8- or 10-pound leaders. But there’s a reason I step up in size.
The heavier fluorocarbon is a little stiffer.
When you’re aggressively snapping a jerkbait, that bait is constantly jumping from side to side and changing direction. With a really light, soft leader, the bait can actually jump over the line. Once that happens, you end up with the hooks catching the leader and fouling the bait.
Now your cast is basically wasted.
A slightly heavier, stiffer fluorocarbon leader helps prevent that from happening. The bait can dart and slash without constantly wrapping itself around your leader.
So don’t be afraid to go heavier.
In this situation, that heavier leader isn’t hurting the presentation. It’s actually helping the bait work the way it’s supposed to.
Choosing the Right Main Line
My main line for this setup is 10-pound Sufix 832 braid, and I really like using a high-visibility color.
That bright line isn’t just about being able to see where your cast went. I’m actually using the line as part of the presentation.
One thing I generally avoid for this particular technique is the really light, ultra-thin nano-style braided lines.
Those lines can be great for other finesse presentations, but when you’re constantly snapping and twitching a jerkbait on slack line, those really thin lines can create more tip wraps and other line-management problems.
For jerkbaits, I want a braid that handles well, is easy to see and gives me enough body to manage the slack effectively.
That’s where 10-pound 832 really shines.
Slack Line Is What Makes a Jerkbait Dance
This is probably the most important part of the entire presentation.
You’re almost always hitting that jerkbait on slack line.
That’s what makes the bait come alive.
If you pull a jerkbait on a tight line, you’re mostly pulling it forward. You can certainly do that when you’re trying to get the bait down to its running depth, but once you’re actually working the lure, I want some slack in the system.
When I snap the rod with slack in the line, the bait doesn’t simply move straight toward me.
It can kick.
It can dart.
It can suddenly start in a different direction.
That’s what you’re looking for.
You’re trying to make that bait behave unpredictably. Every snap can send it somewhere slightly different, and then it hangs there during the pause.
That change of direction makes a huge difference.
Use Your Line to Manage the Pause
This is another reason I like high-visibility braid.
You can actually watch what’s happening.
After snapping the bait, I’m using that bright line to manage the pause. I’m watching the slack, watching the line and paying attention to anything that looks different.
A walleye doesn’t always crush a jerkbait in a way that nearly takes the rod out of your hands.
Sometimes the fish grabs it during the pause, and the line is what tells you something happened.
That’s why line management becomes such an important part of this presentation.
You need enough slack to let the bait move properly, but you also need to stay connected enough that you know what’s happening and can quickly pick up line when a fish eats it.
It’s a balancing act.
And that’s where reel size starts becoming important.
Why I’ve Moved Toward 3000-Size Spinning Reels
For years, a 2500-size spinning reel has been a standard choice for a lot of walleye fishing, and it’s still a great reel size.
But these days, I’m fishing 3000-size reels way more than I used to.
For this jerkbait setup, I’m using a Daiwa Ballistic MQ 3000.
The biggest advantage isn’t that I need some giant reel to fight a walleye. It’s about line management.
That larger spool allows me to pick up line faster.
Think about what’s happening throughout a jerkbait retrieve. You’re intentionally creating slack every time you snap that bait. Then, when a fish bites or you need to make another move, you have to quickly regain control of that line.
A 3000-size reel makes that easier.
The larger spool simply picks up more line, and when you’re fishing a technique that’s constantly creating and recovering slack, that becomes a real advantage.
The Complete Jerkbait System
The important thing to understand is that none of these components are working independently.
It’s a system.
You’ve got 10-pound Sufix 832 braid that gives you excellent line control and visibility.
You’ve got a 14-pound fluorocarbon leader that’s stiff enough to help prevent the jerkbait from jumping over the line and fouling itself.
You’ve got a 3000-size spinning reel, like the Daiwa Ballistic MQ, that lets you quickly recover slack and stay in control of the presentation.
Then you’ve got the angler working the bait.
Snap it on slack.
Let it dart.
Pause it.
Watch the line.
Pick up the slack.
And do it again.
Once you understand how all those pieces work together, you can make a jerkbait do some pretty incredible things.
Fishing Walleyes Like Bass
That’s probably what I enjoy most about this whole deal.
You’re actively fishing.
You’re casting. You’re working the bait. You’re experimenting with cadence. You’re watching your line. You’re figuring out how long those fish want the bait paused and how aggressively they want it moved.
And when you get everything right, you can trigger walleyes that might not respond nearly as well to a slower presentation.
There’s certainly a time and place for live bait and finesse fishing. I love that stuff, too.
But when you can pick up a jerkbait, start snapping it around and catch walleyes like you’re bass fishing?
Man, that’s tough to beat.
The next time you’re throwing jerkbaits for walleyes, pay attention to the details. Don’t automatically reach for the lightest fluorocarbon leader you have. Think about your main line. Think about your reel size. Most importantly, pay attention to how much slack you’re giving that bait when you snap it.
Those little changes can completely change how the lure behaves underwater.
And when you get that bait darting, pausing and changing directions the right way, you’d better be ready.
Because that next snap-pause might end with a bam and another walleye headed toward the boat.